This is my final New Zealand post covering the Tora Coastal Walk (TCW) in the Wairarapa region. It’s a remote, a three-day hike through private hill country coastal farms, river valleys, native bush and along ridge-tops, meandering creeks and spectacular Tora coastline.

Kiri introducing the group to the Tora Coastal Walk
The TCW provides excellent food, comfortable clean beds in interesting accommodations, walking with minimal weight, and a diverse landscape to experience. You bring along a daypack for hiking and another bag with everything else. Each morning, you pack the additional bag and leave it for the postman to deliver to your next destination. It’s one of the most popular private walks in New Zealand. We’d talk with Kiwis about going on it and invariably they were approving, even envious.

Manurewa Point
About twenty years ago, three farmers’ wives came up with the concept and brought it to life during a time when farming was slow and they wanted an additional source of income. The women have deservingly received a national rural woman’s award in entrepreneurship for their business.
We were paired up with others to form a group of 11: a New Zealand couple from Feilding and a group of seven including six ex-pat Brits. It was a good group.

Our group – Tora Coastal Walk
We arrived the first night at WhakapataCottage. The dinner menu was sitting on the table in the cottage next to a delicious home made lemon cake. In the fridge there was a platter of wild venison, a fresh green salad, a bean salad and a pot of potatoes ready to be boiled. Desert was apple tart with cream. For breakfast the next morning: fresh fruit, cereals, breads, jams and spreads. For breakfast or lunch: eggs, sliced meats, fruit, Anzec cookies.

Diverse landscapes
Around 6:00, Kiri, one of the original three entrepreneurs, welcomed us, handed out day maps, gave us a brief overview of the walk and told us a few stories. Afterwards our group cooked the meal and cleaned up the kitchen together. The meal routine repeated itself the next two nights. We had fresh-caught fish on night two and fresh lamb on the third. The food was really, really good.

Native flora, Day 3
Each morning, we placed our baggage in the designated spot and set off. Here is the description of the walk from the TCW website: http://www.toracoastalwalk.co.nz
Day One: Whakapata Cottage to The Cookhouse
Degree of difficulty: moderate / difficult?
Distance: 15.5km or 6 – 7hrs.

Crossing stiles
After a gentle start across rolling open pastures begin the climb up Limestone Hill. This is the highest point of your three days at 355 metres above sea level. Limestone Hill is a magnificent vantage point with sweeping views to the Haurangi Ranges and ahead to the Pacific Ocean and is a perfect lunch spot (on a good day!). Descend to No Name Creek via the Tora Bush. This DOC Reserve is a wonderful example of original native bush in our area and provides a welcome respite in hot weather. Your second main climb is up Tim’s Hill and takes you to The Lookout. Take in the breathtaking expanse of coastline below you before descending to historic Tora Station. Steeped in history, the original “Cookhouse” will transport you back in time as you relax after a hard days graft – as generations of shepherd, shearers and fencers have done before you.
Day Two: The Cook House to The Shearers Quarters
Degree of difficulty: easy?
Distance: 8km – 11kms

The Cookhouse on the right
Linger over breakfast before setting off on the shortest and easiest of your three days. Meander along the coast taking time to enjoy this remote and unique slice of New Zealand. Visit the historic Opua Shipwreck if you wish, take in the seals at Manurewa Point, visit Shirley’s Garden or simply beach comb for treasures to take home with you. Jenny and Chris will be on hand to greet you on arrival at The Shearers Quarters where you can have a break and drop your back pack before heading up to The Trig. A gut-busting climb will be rewarded with unsurpassed views out across the ocean.
With your appetite restored after the day’s activities Jenny will present you with your sumptuous evening meal. Chris has a keen interest in the local history, and enjoys sharing his wide-ranging knowledge and answering any questions you may have.
Day Three: The Shearers Quarters to Whakapata Cottage
Degree of difficulty: moderate?
Distance: 11 – 13kms – 3.5 – 4hrs

Sunrise, Day 3
Begin your day ambling alongside the tranquil Oterei River. Upon reaching Bush Gate begin your climb through lush native flora, where over 50 species have been labelled. Take a one-hour detour up “The Bugler “ if time and weather permit before emerging into open farmland once more to begin your final climb. Pass through the magnificent stand of “old man” Kowhai trees on your way to the ridge which will lead you back to your day one starting point, Whakapata Cottage – and the prospect of your return to the real world!

During the walk, I went through the “why” stage of processing this third-time cancer diagnosis, knowing full well it is a question that cannot be answered. I connected with one of the British ladies who lost her seventeen-year old daughter (only child) in a car accident four years ago. Her sorrow is still very raw. But she and her husband have started a new life in New Zealand, which has opened their lives in many ways. She has a quiet wisdom and some of her peace flowed into my heart. We can’t be certain of anything. There is no answer to why or what if…there is just the great gift of each day.
Life just is: having cancer is beyond my control. All I can control is my response to the cancer.
Tomorrow, I will undergo surgery with all the attendant risks. I know what I’m facing and it’s not easy…but maintaining a positive attitude works wonders for me. I am afraid of many things but remind myself that right now, I’m ok and my fear dissipates. In hospital I expect to have pain and be weak. I’ll feel vulnerable and angry once in a while too. There will even be humerous times and intimate moments of bonding with caregivers, Ed, friends, family. I’ve learned from my two previous operations that pain means the body is healing; it means life. Pain has a positive side.
I know I have done everything I can. The shock has been absorbed; it is time for endurance, acceptance, and letting go. Now I’m in the doctor’s and God’s hands.

Standing next to a cabbage tree
When I come out of that anesthetic, I’ll get back on my feet and do my best to get better, and this time I know slowly is faster. In my mind, I envision a full recovery from surgery through the next two weeks of intensive healing and beyond.

On Limestone Hill summit
I have many great memories to draw on from the hike and the trip – being in New Zealand was good for my soul. It gave me confidence and made me realize I really am in good shape. Having Ed as my partner and knowing that so many people care sustains me. I feel connected and loved. I’m as ready as I’ll ever be.

The land of long white clouds
Tora Coastal Walk
Lambs grazing on golden hillsides, in green hallows
Abalone shells on volcanic black sand
Yellow-brown limestone, gray bedrock, leather seaweed
Wind gusts blowing sea spray off pounding waves
Long white clouds against the blue sky
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Kiri introducing the group to the Tora Coastal Walk
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Sheep wool harvested
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The group
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Whakapata Cottage
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Hiking Day 1
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Crossing stiles
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A dead forest
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Reflecting
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Manuka tree
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The highest point of the Tora Coastal Walk
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Near Limestone Hill summit
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On Limestone Hill summit
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First view of the Tora Coast
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Always time for a nap after lunch
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Standing next to a cabbage tree
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Heading down to the Cookhouse
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The Cookhouse on the right
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Inside the Cookhouse
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Shearer’s cookhouse and our accommodation – really!
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The land of the long white clouds
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Day 2, Sam delivers fresh fish for dinner and talks about the family sheep farm
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Inside the shearing shed
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Manurewa Point
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Sunrise, Day 3
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The Shearer’s Quarters, Day 3 accommodation
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Our group – Tora Coastal Walk
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Jenny and Chris
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Oterei River
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Native flora, Day 3
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The Bugler, Day 3
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Diverse landscapes
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The Kiwi couple from Feilding brewing up a cuppa
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Sheep at Whakapata Cottage – back full circle.